Flânerie in Paris

The Buttes-Chaumont district by Katia Sanchez

For the second chapter in our Paris Strolls series, Katia Sanchez takes us through her favorite spots in the Buttes-Chaumont neighborhood — a place that feels just like a village within the city.

Hello, I’m Katia Sanchez.

After founding the brand Des Petits Hauts in 1999, I left it in 2017.
Then, as a friend of my father once told me, “You do best what you know how to do,” so I started sketching sweaters again and launched my namesake brand from scratch.

With Katia Sanchez, I create thoughtful, joyful knitwear — made locally, ethically, from ultra high-quality natural yarns, and available by pre-order or even as DIY knitting kits!

This new chapter began when I moved to the 19th arrondissement, near Buttes-Chaumont…

Not a day goes by that I don't marvel at walking through this magnificent park, wandering through the narrow streets of Mouzaïa, drinking tea at Mémé's...

This district has reconciled me with Paris and helped me to slow down, too, because you feel like you're in a village, because there are good smells of flowers and herbs, because you're far from the teeming heart of Paris (without being far away all the same), because there are few shops, because the Marché place des fêtes is a delight, because people know each other and talk easily...

STROLLING THROUGH THE PARK, GETTING LOST IN IT, DISCOVERING ALL ITS AMAZING NOOKS AND CRANNIES - THAT'S YOUR MAIN MISSION. BUT ADD TO YOUR PROGRAMME THESE LITTLE ADDRESSES FOR SHOPS, CAFÉS, RESTAURANTS, ART VENUES... YOU WON'T REGRET IT. YOU WON'T REGRET IT.

For lunch, a snack, dinner...

AT MÉMÉ

A neighborhood bar, canteen, and small grocery all in one. Vanessa brews you a mint tea “just for you,” serves up a homemade apple tart or a comforting couscous just like at home. It’s all about family spirit and community vibes. You instantly feel at ease in this warm atmosphere — the perfect spot before wandering through the tiny streets of La Mouzaïa, a hidden enclave of 350 flower-filled houses in the heart of Paris, just next to Buttes-Chaumont.

5 rue du Général Brunet, Paris 19th
chezmemeparis19.fr
@chezmemeparis

To read and discover

Long bookshop

A well-stocked, large bookshop where I love to stroll.
A real bookseller who likes to advise and talk about books.

22 avenue Mathurin Moreau, Paris 19e
parislibrairies.fr
@librairielongtemps

Déco

Drei Paris

A pretty vintage decor shop. Old ceramics, vintage mirrors, pretty stationery, baskets <em>the basketroom</em> made in Kenya or Ghana, solid soaps. Little but beautiful. Well-chosen and meaningful.

21 Rue de la Villette, Paris 19e
dreiparis.com
@dreiparis

Comptoir de Thé

Tea & Ty

A shop selling teas and infusions.
For the pleasure of discovery.

21 rue de la Villette, Paris 19e
teaandty.com
@teaandty

To enjoy a good wine

Hubris Paris

Small restaurant - wine bar - wine shop.

Benoît offers seasonal, homemade cuisine based on biodynamic and natural wines. Located at the highest point in Paris (128.5 m), Hubris is a place to have a drink, dine, buy wine to take away, learn about wine,....

13 rue du Borrégo, Paris 20e
levinsurmesure.com
@hubris_paris

Travel for a meal

Yaya

A bit of a “hype” restaurant in the area, but very good Greek food.
Honey almond feta to die for!

33 avenue Secrétan, Paris 19e
yayarestaurant.com
@yayarestaurant

To leave with arms full of flowers

Fioretti

A pretty florist offering seasonal flowers with a touch of soul.

18 avenue Secrétan, Paris 19e
fiorettiparis.fr
@fiorettiparis

For authentic bread

Poilâne

An old bakery from the 1920s, with its marble counter and old-fashioned shop front. It has one of the last wood-fired ovens in the capital. I go there for the delicious little shortbread biscuits.

83 rue de Crimée, Paris 19e
poilane.com
@poilane

To please the little ones

Tatanka

To find “not plastic” toys, games and puzzles.
The man has often given me excellent advice on my Christmas presents.

13 bis rue Paradier, Paris 19e
petitscommerces.fr
@tatankajouets

For signature jewellery

Judith Benita

Boutique-workshop for fine, refined costume jewellery. Creations where lines, materials and proportions are combined with precision and sensitivity.

7 rue Pradier, Paris 19e
judithbenita.com
@judithbenita

A guinguette as we like it

Rosa Bonheur

I'm sure you've heard of it ... but I can't talk about Les Buttes Chaumont without mentioning Rosa Happiness, because ... it's happiness! What I love here are the garlands of colorful bulbs and the children running around.

A cool aperitif away from the cars.

2, allée de la Cascade, Paris 19e
rosabonheur.fr
@rosabonheurofficiel

Independent, artistic and festive venue

La Bellevilloise

A place of culture and life, with exhibitions, concerts, terraces for reading, brunches...

19-21 rue Boyer, Paris 20e
labellevilloise.com
@labellevilloise

Contemporary art

FRAC Le Plateau

Right next to the park. Drop in to discover the occasional exhibitions and contemporary works of the FRAC Ile de France (Fond régional d'art contemporain).

22 Rue des Alouettes, Paris 19e
fraciledefrance.com
@fraciledefrance